Day 21. Tidesong - Whangarei Heads

After a comfortable rest day at tidesong B&B I was on my two feet again. Roselyn lent me some water boots and generously decides to guide me across the estuary. It was a muddy, wet start to the day and by the time we reached the other side I realized I had forgot my walking stick. The tide was already starting to come back so I accepted lose of yet another stick and continued on. Roselyn walked with me for some way down a paper road before we approached the first crossroad of the trail. I gave her a big hug and said my goodbyes. I've discovered theres a name for people like Hilton, Milva, Roselyn, Hue, Tracy, and Peter. "Trail angels". Taking me off the long road, into their homes, treating me with warmth and company.

The morning was sunny and blue. My first climb took me to the top of Kauri mountain where I soon found myself a new walking stick, or staff I should say. The long piece of wood holds up well, and I decided it to be my strongest companion yet. As I reached the summit of Kauri mountain I could see my entire days walk laid out In front of me. First, Ocean Beach stretched it's way for 10km. At its end was a steep rocky peak known as Bream head, which grew west to another peak known as mount lion. Both peaks had climbs over 450m. My challange.

Memories of Ninety Mile beach came flashing back as I made my walk down ocean beach. The tide was rising and by the time I hit the end of it I realized there was a rocky face section that would prove difficult with high water. I almost attempted to get in the water to get across the rocks, but decided to take a steep hightide track I found over some dunes. As I came to the other side of the dunes I found something I have yet to see much of on Te Araroa. People. Couples and families walking on the short section of beach, enjoying a sunny Saturday afternoon. As I finished the beach I made my way to a public bathroom that I was told had water that had to be treated. While looking for the water I ran Into two french travelers. John Phillip, and Jasmine. We talked for a short while and they offered me some fresh water from their car. This made the day much easier since the climb to Bream head was a tough one, and I wasn't looking forward to having to treat my water every time I needed a drink.

I began my climb up, and my legs were burning. The climb went from sea level to 450m in one hard, sharp climb. When I reached the top I was rewarded with even better views of ocean beach and Kauri mountain. I could see the weather changing in the distance. Dark clouds were approaching and I knew rain was imminent for the evening.

The climb then went very steeply down then straight up to mount lion. I searched for a possible place to camp, but every place I found was too exposed. I decided I would push, and camp at the end of the trail. My legs were weak as I came down the summit of mount lion, shaking with every step.

When I reached the car park I took a short walk down to the beach and set up camp in the trees. The rain was close, but I managed to set up camp and eat dinner before it arrived. I met a german couple - Sam and Lucas - who were staying at the car park, and they invited me inside their self contained camper van for tea. It was a nice way to end the day. Rain began to fall as we talked, and soon after I was in my cozy shelter reading my book.

Tomorrow I will need to hitch a boat ride across the whangarei harbour. There's no knowing if I'll find a way. I may have to stay at whangarei heads for longer than anticipated if I don't. Another day another challange.