Day 22. Whangarei harbor - Waipu

The rain continued throughout the night, but by 7:00 am it took its break. Enough time for me to pack up camp and prepare for its return.

So far on Te Araroa I've had a very distinct plan on how I'm going to overcome my daily obstacles. Today was different. I learned from Hilton and Milva that the contacts on my trail notes no longer operated boat services, meaning hitching a boat ride was the only option to get across the harbor

As I continued walking around the bay I ran into an elderly man. When I told him I was looking to hitch a boat ride he told me I was going to have a hard time. He said "not too many fish in the bay right now, and it's a Sunday". I continued on.

The rain started up again, but I was prepared. I was starting to accept the idea of having to spend another night in Whangarei heads when I saw and sign that said "Te Araroa camping". I followed the sign to a house thinking  "maybe someone here can help me". As I circled the property in the poring rain I spotted an old man talking on the phone in his pajamas. He invited me into his sheltered patio, sat me down next to him, and continued his conversation. For the next 30 minutes I tried not to evesdrop on the conversation, but was practically welcomed Into it. Whenever a joke was made Doug would prompt me to laugh, and I soon found myself apart of the whole thing. He was talking to someone from Scotland? They were talking of old stories? Drinking whiskey ? Pipers? Painting?

When the phone conversation ended I introduced myself to Douglas Chowns and he invited me inside for coffee. The next 2 and a half hours were spent listening to the many life stories of Doug in his increidbly characteristic living room with his dog Leah. When Doug found out I was a photographer his eyes grew wide in excitement. He brought out his portfolio, telling me stories of his career with Kodak and other companies in Spain during the 1940's. I also learned that Doug has designed houses and planes. He's responsible for the Whangarei art school, and has a big influence on the piper bands in the area.

After been given a tour of Douglas Chowns life, he told me that he cannot give me a boat ride across the harbor, but could drive me around Instead. I gladly excepted his offer and we began the 1 and a half drive to the other side.

Doug drove, and Leah layed in the passenger seat at my feet while he told me an Incredible story of when he escaped from Czech to deliver a music box to Rene Grobli in the UK. "it was dark. we were hiding in a tunnel, me and a German couple. I jumped in my car, put on the high beams, and hit the gas as hard as I could. The wheels spun fast and the jolt of the car must have activated the music player in the back because god save the queen started playing. Then a bullet hit the side of the car. It was like something out of a James Bond movie. The only thing I could do was laugh. The German guy next to me wasn't though"

It was a day that I expected to spend walking, but instead spent learning the story of an Incredible life. Doug really inspired me today. I hope he knew how motivating it was listening to his stories. A part of me feels I should be using my time more directed related to photogrpahy, but another part of me knows I may not have realized that if I hadn't met doug.